Archive for August, 2007

Sad tales

Derrick, one of the young staff here at the lodge, has just had his new baby daughter die.  He was very worried all the time she was ill, and in hospital, but they sent her home on the weekend so everyone thought she was getting better.  She went back to hospital on Monday and died yesterday. She was only a couple months old.

And on my own gripe list, Sony cannot (will not) help me with the drivers.  So no video postings, which is a shame since there is some interesting though not very professional-looking footage there.  Lion, elephants and the flight of a Goliath Heron I saw yesterday in Kozi Bay.

The guests wanted to go on a boat ride on the lake system there so I got up at 5 a.m. to go with them to see the bay.  I couldn’t go on the boat as it was full, but Oscar and I walked around, and as he had lived there for 6 months, he showed me all the paths, with birds, monkeys, flowers and trees. I thoroughly enjoyed it.  Kozi is a very beautiful place as long as you watch out for the hippos and crocs.  I had taken my swim suit, so spent about 15 minutes getting the sun on the back of my body.  Didn’t want to overdo it since I haven’t sunbathed in a decade.

The boaters saw hippos and flamingoes and were ‘well chuffed’ as they say here.  They stopped at the Manguzi library on the way back, since two couples of the guests were Danish librarians, and apparently the Danes have done a lot of library funding here in SA.

That’s all for tonight – it’s been a long day.

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Today so far

has been up and down. I’ve finally realised that one reason I’m so tired all the time is that I spend most of the night on the edge of sleep trying to stay under my blanket. I’m pretty spoiled, comparatively speaking.

The bed is one of the very narrow ones – 25″ I think – and the blanket is only a couple inches wider on each side. So if I turn on my side in my sleep, I’m having cold air whistling all around me since the blanket just won’t cover the bulk of a body sleeping on its side. And I’ve spent a whole lot of nights just trying not to fall off the bed. Going to spend some time trying to find a wider blanket so I can get some effective rest.

School today was interesting. The grammar class was mainly wasted time, as not only were the children afraid to speak up, but their grounding in simple tense structures is so meagre that trying to do continuous and perfect tenses as they have been doing is useless. I’ll have to find some practise exercises for simple tense structures and see how they do. Then I’ll know where I am.

The class in number patterns went markedly better. They understood patterns with a positive constant rule, and caught on to those with a constant negative rule quickly. Then I tried some with an inconstant rule (I know those are probably not proper terms, but I hope you get the drift) and that took a bit of explaining regarding the fact that you had to find the rule all the way across the number sequence to find the rule to apply. Onward and upward.

The monkeys (The Gang of Five) have learned to take the logs off the garbage bins, and garbage was all over the yard this morning before I got up. Cheeky little beggars, but so cute.

I’ll post a few more pictures, then got to get on to school work.

Mr Big - not so pretty

Crested hornbill - not a hamerkop as I’d thought

House lizard - keeps the crawlies out of your bed and belongings

Yellow-bellied Bulbul

Vervet monkey - the risk-taker of The Gang

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Sunday is the best day

because I get to do nothing at all, or just wander around looking for animals.

Today I got asked at 7:50 a.m. to drive the two British girls who were leaving over to the lodge. They said they wanted to drive the alternate route as there had been 4 very large elephants just outside our gate a bit earlier, looking like they were coming in. AND NO ONE WOKE ME UP!!!! The nerve !! So I missed that – too bad.

But coming back, just as I turned out of the lodge gate and rounded the first corner, there were 3 elephants standing in the road. One very large and three smaller – which doesn’t mean they were ’small’ by any stretch of the imagination. I backed up a bit, then phoned Ernest at the lodge to tell him I was stopped for traffic and not to run up my back end if he came around the corner. They sauntered off after a few minutes and I cruised by, stopping to take a picture of one guy’s behind – amazing how close you can be.

Then I finally got a picture of a wart hog. Never have had my camera with me before. I’m getting quite fond of the wart hogs. They are really quite beautiful when seen close up and after you get used to their oddness of form.

And when I got home and went to the kitchen there were three female nyala standing near the front door. They are so beautiful. All russet and stripy – computer at the camp is down again after only one day – I think it must be the sand in the air that is getting to the drives and contacts. The computer is in a screened room and I can’t see that being good for anything mechanical with the constant fine grit in the air. So what I’m saying is, no pics again today. (Maybe now some pics – we’ll see)

Also saw a pair of hammerkop, I’m pretty sure, but the picture just shows their silhouette. My camera is not really good enough for bird pics unless the birds are 3 feet away, but I wanted to take this to get confirmation of my identification.

And found out that the raptor that Bongani and I saw while elephant monitoring – and whose name I still can’t remember – is a quite rare sighting. So I’m pretty happy.

With the British teens gone, there are only Vanessa, Oscar and myself at the camp, and Vanessa leaves on Thursday. It will be peaceful and quiet – maybe too much so. I’m going to miss the British roses, though they were young.

And I asked Oscar to marry me at the braai on Friday. He can cook and hook up computers, so I figured, what the heck, eh? He turned me down <G>. I’ve really got to quit teasing him, but it’s kind of like having a younger brother around, and I find it hard to resist.

Anyway, going to get back on the road and look for more creatures before the sun goes down. Nightfall is very early here, and it seems to be that way all year. Must be closer to the equator than we are. Don’t know, never looked it up.

Met some nice S African folks who just arrived as guests, who have lived in Holland for the past 12 years. They’re just counting the days until their daughter finishes Uni and he can retire so they can come home. Many, many people seem to be very passionate about the ‘new South Africa’ and I don’t blame them. They’re building something wonderful here.

Miss you all – drop me a line or leave a comment, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

Breakfast at the lodge

Pretty Miss Nyala

They mean it, too!!

McDonald’s arches mark the Impala


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Ouch!

I managed to get a couple pics onto yesterday’s post.

Not much to write today. I spent 4 hrs trying to download the drivers sent by someone at Sony HQ, only to find out that they were just the same updates that were on the site.

Now I’ve spent another 6 hrs finding and downloading worksheets for the kids for next week. Going to bed.

This is not what the Big Adventure was supposed to be about . . .

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Success!!

Well, I went to the school this morning and they did have a schedule made up for me. It is a good one and only a few adjustments will need to be made. I am ecstatic! Now I can really get going and, I hope, make some progress.

Trying to figure out how to teach direct and indirect speech – it’s not an easy subject, and the teacher says he’s had no success. I don’t wonder, as their vocabularies are not really up to it. I checked the ESL websites and the one instruction on every site says that you have to “back up the verb tense” which is great (??!!) since I do it naturally – but have no idea of the ranking of ‘backness’ of verbs. MEE?? Kath?? Elaine??

They do study verb tenses and so on in ESL that I don’t think you would learn in an English speaking country until Uni, which seems a bit silly, since the vocab is still so lacking. I know I learned them back in my one-room school days, but surely cannot remember much now. I *really* hope they get a printer hooked up so I can print out some rules and exercises to do.

It’s cooler and windy here today, so that’s a nice break. Unfortunately the wind from that direction brings the biting flies, like our horseflies. BUT – that natural insect repellent I got from Hempola works a charm on everything I’ve run into so far. WAHOO!! No DEET!

MT, thanks for your support too. Really nice to hear from you, Lise and Ruth with your ‘been there, done that’ wisdom. I do hope you have seen your leopard. We do have some here, but they are very elusive, and we have to put bait out by the camera to even get video of them. Hardly anyone has ever seen them ‘in person’.

Saw 4 elephants on the monitoring run yesterday. One big guy standing munching lunch in the reed bed – he came to investigate us and crossed the road about 20 feet ahead of us. I was a little nervous, since I’ve seen how fast they can move, but the monitor seemed OK with the distance, though I did notice that he had put the bakki in reverse, even though the engine was off. Then we went to the pan and saw three more. One huge adult male with two juvenile males. It was funny, because when the adult male was there, everything else stayed clear of the waterhole. As soon as he wandered away to scratch his bum on a tree (just glad it wasn’t the bakkie – the tree was pushed right over) all the other animals came out and went for a drink or a roll in the mud – they paid no mind to the juveniles even though they were almost as big.

I just can’t get over the number of birds here. We saw several that I’d never seen before while on the monitoring run yesterday. The yellow-breasted long-claw was one – his legs and feet are so delicate you wonder how they could support even a cotton ball. Then there was a crested hornbill, whose beak was big, thick and bright, bright orange. And some raptors and shrikes.

I didn’t know about shrikes liking to eat maggots. I remember from my childhood seeing them impaling their prey on thorns, and was told at that time that they would come back and eat the mouse or smaller bird when they got hungry. Apparently that’s not the case. They wait until it’s full of maggots then come and munch on those. Yuck!! I’ll stick to Frito-Lay for snacks.

One bird I’m dying to get a look at hoots all day like an owl. It’s and emerald something-or-other. There are so many new names for me to learn: people, birds, animals, trees, flowers, that I promptly forget them all, and it’s really embarrassing!!

Talking about flowers, I got a good picture I think of an tiny orchid that grows here. Almost looks like our dog toothed violet, but grows up in rotten parts of trees. Really pretty. That’s for you, Mary. I’ll get it up as soon as the equipment is back up and running.

Oh, and something I keep meaning to mention. You know you always see those pictures of African sunsets and everything looks pink?? It really is – no photo enhancement needed. The air around you gets this absolutely magical pink glow that halos the trees and bushes, and it slowly fades through a range of pinks, mauves and oranges, until, suddenly, the sun drops below the horizon and it is dark.

The English text used at my school for Grade 7 (only one copy – of most things) was, I suspect, published in about 1910 and is in bad shape, and has many pages with a big chunk out where a mouse has eaten a hole.

The children come to school after the monthly pay day with toilet paper in their pockets to use as needed. Getting toward the end of the month, there is no more toilet paper and no money to buy any, either. The school doesn’t dare buy it, even if they had the budget, I suspect, because it would disappear too quickly. No hand soap either, just a bottle of disinfectant soap kept locked in the principal’s office for use when someone has a bleeding injury. And kindergarten, Gr1 and Gr2 still have to “go” in the bushes, since shortly after the latrines were built a stray baby goat was playing in them and fell in, and it was quite a rescue operation to get him out – so now they’re afraid that the youngest children might have the same fate.

Another braai tonight. Cait and Sadie leave for England on Sunday, so a big party for them. Parties seem to be a very regular occurrence, for any or no reason – so I guess I might as well get used to it.

Hope Nic and Claire are coming. Haven’t had a chance to talk to Claire again since she kindly loaned me the Zulu/English workbooks that she uses to homeschool her kids.

Anyway, off to do more lesson planning . . .

Little orchid

Mr Yellowsocks (Nyala)

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Just a note

to say that I hope all my grandchildren have had a chance to see the photos I’ve posted, since with the computer at the camp going for reformatting, they will likely all disappear, and some I wont be able to get back again – not to mention the task it will be to download them first onto the computer there and then onto the web page again.

Have to run now, as I had to give two computer lessons this afternoon, so now it is getting dark, and I surely don’t want to run into an elephant in the dark with an unfamilar vehicle and on these sandy tracks they call roads.

More soon . . .

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Thundering . . . . ??

Good grief! Do you know how loud it sounds when some animal (likely a bushbaby) pees on your tin roof? I was awakened with a start and thought that Niagara Falls had moved into the closet.

Thanks for the support Lise. I have done that – asked them to fill out a timetable so I’ll know what time I should be there and for who and what. But guess what? Bet you won’t be surprised . . . There is no word for timetable in Zulu!

I have gone on a couple game drives – that is wonderful. Just cruising through the bush looking for whatever may be there. I have also done one session of elephant monitoring, but no lion monitoring yet. That will come next week when the other two British girls go home. Letting them have their last bit of fun.

That will just leave one British girl, who is due to leave at the end of the month, and myself. A new volunteer is coming in then too. Also a group of 8 wildlife researchers are coming for one night sometime soon.

Juvenile or female nyala got into the camp today and they are so pretty. Standing just a few feet away from them and talking to them softly while they looked at me with those big eyes and tried to decide whether to run or continue lunch was just great.

Passed a still-steaming pile of elephant spoor this morning while driving Vanessa to the gate, so keeping a sharp eye out for those elephants. The Korando may be a big pile of steel, but still not up to taking on an elephant.

It’s fun driving the 4X4 – the shifting on the wrong side turned out to be easier than I’d thought it would be, once I get the right hand (actually, the left hand <G>) going. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve tried to shift with the right door handle though.

And yesterday I went to lean on the left door as I always do, and darn near fell into the passenger seat. I really have to pay attention. But it is harder when it’s well over 90F. You just get drowsy.

Going elephant monitoring again tomorrow, then over to the school on Friday to see if they’ve done the schedule. If they haven’t I’ll have to go around to each class and get them to sit down with me right then and plan.

I’m planning to go out on a culling trip, and have asked to be able to help field dress the animal. I’ll have to get some clothes I can throw away afterwards, as they likely won’t wash out very well. And I probably won’t want the memories.

But I’ve always said that if you were willing to eat meat that you should be willing to kill and dress it and not wimp out with only sanitary plastic-wrapped dinner where someone else has done the dirty work. Time to put my money where my mouth is . . .

. . . but if I come home a confirmed vegetarian, we just won’t discuss it, OK??

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The weekend is coming, the weekend is coming!!

*** I wrote this last week before the computer crashed, and just found it saved in draft form. I thought I’d lost it all ******

Well, lots going on here.

A new volunteer co-ordinator has been assigned and is living with us in the camp. His name is Oscar, and he has worked here a lot it seems. He also has his own safari business and is a registered Professional Hunter and a Registered Culler. He is a breath of fresh air and a great ‘new broom’. He’ll have us completely organised in no time flat. He is ex-military as is every male in South Africa, I think.

He has already blown through the kitchen and computer room, setting everything straight and throwing out all sorts of old stuff left over from countless waves of previous volunteers and researchers.

I was teasing him today because the word through the grapevine was that he was single and very rich. A pretty attractive combination to a bunch of single young women living in a bush camp <(^0^)> He assured me that though he was single, the rich part was someone’s daydream. He’s just a generous and gentlemanly guy though, so really welcome.

The computer at the camp is down and out again, so I can’t post any pictures right now – but on the plus side, I wrote Sony head office and they have sent me a link that may allow me to download my video. Keep your fingers crossed – and then I’m not sure if this site will take video, but if not, I’ll go onto one of the other sites and set them up for you all.

Saw some more great adaptive behaviour this morning. Got up at 6 a.m. to get a shower and to do some hand laundry before school, and saw a flycatcher-type bird sitting on a branch just a couple feet from the brightest of the night lamps on the path. It was bright enough for him to be out, and still dark enough for the moths to be out. He was sitting their watching the light and when a moth came, he swooped in and ate it. That light is like a Mickey D’s drive-through for this guy. Definitely fast food!! I cracked up and scared him away.

Oscar tells us that the monkeys can tell the difference between human males and human females and will attack the females if they have food. Hormone scents? I don’t know, but just let him try it . . . Or maybe I should just use common sense and keep the food locked away?? I guess . . . .

The rest of the volunteers have gone to a resort in Mozambique for the weekend. I was supposed to go too, but there weren’t enough rooms available, so I will go some other time. Meanwhile, I am going to spend the weekend going on game drives and trying to see some of the park. AND – I’m trying to get my umzukulu (grandson) to rent his uncle’s bakkie so he can take me here and there that I’ve been and wanted to take photos, but couldn’t because there were others along. I’m trying to get him to name his price for a day’s guiding as I don’t want to take advantage of his day off without pay, but it was a bit of a job trying to explain to him that if he didn’t set a price, either he might feel obligated if I paid too much, or if I didn’t pay enough he might feel cheated, when the problem really was that I just don’t have a feeling for the money and salary levels yet. So he finally ‘got it’ and said he would first find out if the bakkie was available, then we’d settle the rest.

I think it was the fact that he is always driving me around that caused the two unpleasant incidents I mentioned earlier. It is a source of anger in most poorer countries, I think, that “rich” old (or even young, though the young tend to be just ‘tropic mad’ and really think they’re in love or something) white women and men come and dazzle their most promising young people with what amounts to trinkets and cause problems in the community.

** This is all that was saved. I’ll try to finish the thought later.**

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Just a few notes

Well, both computers crashed completely, here at the Lodge and over at the research camp.  This one at the lodge is up again, but I can’t do photos or anything and I can’t use it for lengthy periods as others need it and I have to get a ride between here and the camp through lion and rutting elephant territory.  Not allowed to walk.

Anyway, I’m fine.  Did find my juice, called Liquifruit or something – got the best orange juice, even better than Tropicana since they don’t put the peels through the juices like all the N American juice places do.

I think the blues were just from the absolute confusion on the part of management here about the role of the volunteers, and what they can and can’t do, what resources they have access to.  There seems to be a change of mind about every 10 minutes and it’s really hard to get anything planned, or even to know if you can plan, because you can’t count on what you heard today since it’ll probably be changed tomorrow.  And that’s the white management.

Also, while the teachers at the school were thrilled to have me around the first week, the novelty palled and the second week I was a bit at loose ends.  This week I put my foot down, hard, and explained to them that I was there to help, but I couldn’t if they wouldn’t give me any assistance about what and where.  I wasn’t there to continually interrupt what they were doing.

So yesterday I left them a timetable to fill in – where they want me, when and what level the kids are learning at (don’t say it!).  I won’t go back until Thursday or Friday to pick it up, and teachers here take many days off due to transportation problems and family needs.

Some of the elephants are going into must and you can see it by the marks of some stuff that runs down their faces.  They can be pretty aggressive when that happens, so I’ll stay off the road when I’m on foot and inside the gulag.

Hired one of the staff here and his friend’s bakkie on Sunday and went to Jozini dam.  It was great.  Bongani took me to his family compound to meet his grandma, but she had gone to the other compound.  We took the two nieces and the hired boy who looks after the cattle, as both Bongani and his brother have outside jobs, and bought some fried chicken and drinks and had a picnic at the dam.  It’s really beautiful there.  I loved being out like that so I could stop where I wanted for pics and just see things and people.

Also there’s a new volunteer co-ordinator who seems to be a truly “new broom” and has really organised the camp.  Unfortunately he seems to be caught in the middle between mgmt and the volunteers.  More about that later.

Now I realise I have been going on about these guinea hens, and also realise that I have taken pics of two kinds and been passing them off as the same thing.  I’ll also get that straight later – but at least I’m sort of straight now.  Loved the hen pie suggestion though, and I will make sure we get the right kind.

Lots of culling going on, so we’re getting a lot of wildlife in the pot and on the braai.

Got to rush now, but will get on again soon I hope.  I love getting the comments, so thanks.

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Not too much new

today, so this may be short.

Didn’t go to school this morning, was feeling a bit harried and down for some reason. Went to Manguzi and got some money for my telephone that Ernest is bringing in a day or two and also got some fruit juice. The stuff they give the volunteers and call fruit juice is so far from any real fruit (6%) it’s pretty bad.

On the whole we get fed pretty well. There seems to be a lot of money spent on groceries for this place, but it’s unfortunate that some of the volunteers seem to think it’s OK to take a couple weeks worth of meat and other groceries and have a braai, either here or elsewhere, and feed all kinds of people that have nothing to do with Tembe. If it was once in a blue moon, it wouldn’t seem so outrageous, but this is the third time and I haven’t even been here two weeks yet. It’s no wonder that volunteer fees have gone up 50% this year. Kind of bothers me that they’re not thinking this thing through.

Computer lesson went well, and I used my brother’s “smooshing” technique, and it was wonderful. Big eyes at being able to get your work back when the screen had been full of gibberish.

Saw more of those guinea fowl today and tried to get a photo just for Wayne but it didn’t turn out so well – no surprise <G> They are apparently very rare though – beautiful too.

As I said evreyone has gone off to a braai so I’m here in the blessed peace and quiet, with no bass from the CD player thumping through the walls everywhere. I just long for peace and quiet sometimes. At home I’d go out and sit on the porch sometimes at 4 a.m. – the quietest time in downtown Toronto – just to soak up the quiet and recharge.

Going to have my supper and then do a bit of reading, and off to bed. Hope you all had a good day.

** And do hope you all realise that you can double click on any of the photos to get a full screen version, and that a mouse-over on the thumbnail will give you a bit of info . . .??

Famous fast food, SA style

Guinea fowl, helmeted or crested, I forget

Staff bus I take now between the lodge and the volunteer quarters

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